This week's roundup represents why I started the sub register: it's comprised of really cool watches that I would gladly own myself given the means (or minus other responsibilities). Watches that I click on, admire, think would make a great piece, but are not for me right now, so hopefully someone else will enjoy them as they should.
I just received my Universal Geneve Microtor, (which is sort of a poor man’s Polerouter), back from service this week, so my love for these is stoked that little bit more. This is an unusual sale in that it was initially for two of the same (but uniquely different) watch. The black dial has sold, but the lovely chocolate brown dial is still available from a highly reputable private seller for $1250 asking here.
I love that this listing shows the two watches together, just showing all of the little intricacies that make these two twins so different and this obsessive hobby so fun. Comparing aside, this Polerouter Date is absolutely killer. The elongated twisted lugs, the dagger hands, the crosshair dial, gilt text, bright contrasting silver rehaut, applied metal logo, the awesome microtor movement, the list goes on and on! I’m not going to go into the interesting history of these watches because Worn and Wound does it so well here, but I can say the roots on this watch run deep and it’s a good read. These watches wear incredibly well due to the long bombe lugs and the very thin case profile from the microtor movement. If you’re a regular reader, you know how much I love early Tudor Prince’s for their classy/versatile/dressy appeal, but these just take it up a notch further with little details like the cross-hair dial, trapezoidal date window, and super slim and more designed cases. Snag this one on OmegaForums before someone else does here.
Staying on the vintage three hander theme, this Longines Cal 30 has some patina on the dial but is absolutely charming and offers a lot of watch at a very modest $260 asking. The early Longines calibers are well regarded for their robust workhorse reliability, and this one that appears to be all original, a great size, and keeping excellent time, is probably seeing its price floor. 35 mm will wear incredibly well due to the long lugs and very thin manual winding movement, in a similar vein to the Polerouter above. It's really tough to beat an honest manual wind vintage watch with sub seconds, and at this price, you really can't go wrong. Asking $260 on WatchUseek forums here.
Dropping the third (seconds) hand, adding a date, and sporting a more modern size case of 38 mm, this Hamilton Intra-Matic 38 has all of the vintage feel of the other two watches with more modern reliability. It's hard to get much cleaner than this dial layout with new watches, and being that it comes with two leather straps, a mesh strap, and boxes for $350 makes it a very complete package. The watch overall looks like it could have been born in the 50's or 60's with an extremely clean two-handed layout with the date cleanly located at 6 behind a window reiminicent of the Polerouter. The 38 mm case is a great vintage meets modern size and it will wear a bit more substantial due to the thicker case to accommodate the automatic movement behind the sapphire crystal caseback. The watch is said to be near mint, and I don't refute that. The textured honey brown calfskin strap from Hodinkee sells for $189 new on its own, so this package is really packaged more than reasonably. In my mind it represents a great first watch or one of your first watches as it has so much versatility and comes with so many different options to completely change the look and feel right off the bat for way less than had you tried to assemble the same package yourself. Get it here for $350 asking.
And because I don't think any #thesubregister would really be complete without a tool watch, here is stunning example of one of the most no-nonsense divers of them all. These vintage Doxa divers have really grown on me in the last year because they are so uniquely "Doxa" and so purpose built. These watches were clearly built for divers and not for future watch collectors, which just makes me appreciate them that much more. The different model names represented the various dial color offerings, the Sharkhunter obviously sporting a nice matte black. I love the "US Divers Co Aqualung" logo which represents that the US Divers CO actually commissioned Doxa to make this watch for divers such as Jacques Cousteau. As stated in the ad, this one is in superb condition with fantastic even patina Tritium lume plots and hands and a very sharp case. The price isn't cheap at $2700 asking, but I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better example.
And just in case you liked the 300T Sharkhunter but maybe want to actually dive with it or just want that look at a lesser price, this modern 1200T Sharkhunter is available on WatchUseek forums for $1400 asking with 3 months left on the warranty and full box and papers. You get nearly all of the same look, the same case and similar proportions, plus the security that it will actually still be waterproof (to a depth of 900 meters more than the original!), and the awesome period correct beads of rice bracelet for over $1000 less than the vintage watch this is based off. Once again, Worn and Wound delivers on the nitty-gritty and details that make this a really nice vintage inspired but modern day updated banger. $1400 asking price on WUS here.