Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3796S with Extract from the Archives

The reference 3796 just might be the king or archetype for the neo-vintage category of watches. The same proportions and (largely the same) design as the truly iconic reference 96 updated with a more robust movement, case, sapphire crystal, gaskets, etc. It’s a reference I was always concerned might feel too sterile or modernized compared to the warmth and charm of its vintage inspiration, though I am pleased to report I have not found that to be the case, and absolutely love wearing a 3796. The wide flat bezel feels more pronounced than the 96, possibly due the flatter sapphire crystal, adding to the overstated presence of the measured case diameter that wears beautifully on wrist.

This 3796 is a very special one, so much so that I had to do some digging to confirm it was not an aftermarket modification to showcase the beautiful caliber 215 PS manually wound and Geneva Seal movement. I am very pleased to confirm the present watch is 100% authentic and original and confirmed with an Extract from the Archives. The most common configuration of the 3796S is the salmon dial and white gold cased 3796SG made for the Japanese market in 1998, making this 1995 / 1996 yellow gold reference exceedingly rare. Complemented by the “Ivory” dial that is less common than the brushed silver dials, exhibiting a rich depth and warmth that could almost be mistaken for enamel. The market is just now starting to pay attention to these dials and value them at a premium, making for an exceptional combination with the rare “S” configuration.

Reference: 3796S or 3796SJ in 18K Yellow Gold with Ivory-white dial.

Case: The 30.5 x 38.5 x 6.7 mm 18-Carat yellow gold case is in very nice condition, exhibiting only minor surface scratches throughout as photographed. It appears to have been lightly polished in the past, with hallmarks still clearly legible on the 9 o’clock side of the case.

Dial: The warm ivory white dial is free of any defects and complemented by the applied and faceted gold indices, minute markers, and prominent dauphine hands. The accented signature and sigma Swiss dial lean into the vintage feel.

Movement: The caliber 215 PS manually wound movement is traditionally finished, featuring a Geneva Seal on full display through the sapphire caseback. The inner caseback contains the 3796S reference number, case number, and hallmarks crisply engraved around the perimeter. The watch is winding, setting, and running smoothly at approximately +1 s/d, averaged across 6 positions.

Strap: The watch is presented on a signed short-length gray alligator strap with signed yellow gold buckle.

Includes: Extract from the Archives documenting the 3796S reference, yellow gold case, Ivory-white dial, 1995 production, and January 16, 1996 date of sale.