Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref 5050

If you’re a long-time follower of meticulist, you’ve probably picked up that I revel in the less obvious choices, the overlooked, or the adjacent to the obvious stars. The reference 5050 is the perfect example of this, produced in far fewer numbers over nine-year period from 1993 to 2002 than the reference 3940, with the added complications of central running seconds and retrograde date. The brand’s first serially produced perpetual calendar with retrograde date display, and the first with central sweep seconds since the highly coveted references 2497 and 2438-1 from the 1950’s. It is estimated between 600 and 1,100 pieces were produced across all metals with roughly 100 to 150 housed in rose gold, such as this present example.

It is debated if there were two or three series of the reference, depending on how you define the differences, but it's generally agreed upon those with applied Roman numerals, such as this, are from the first series of production. Second series dials had baton or stick indices and “automatic” printed to round out the moon phase aperture. The Roman dials are estimated to account for just 25% of total production making them rarer and more sought after due to the omission of the “automatic” text and lower production numbers.

What is not immediately noticeable by the numbers alone is how much larger and with more presence the reference 5050 wears versus the 3940. With lugs that are approximately 2 mm longer (45.3 vs 43.3 mm) and spaced 2 mm wider (20 vs 18 mm), in a more classic Calatrava shape, the 5050 is also approximately 2.5 mm thicker than the 3940 due to the added complications, full automatic winding rotor, and screw down caseback.

A reference that I've long admired because it feels overlooked, but is most certainly special in its own right, I'm please to offer this very nice, honest, and attractive reference 5050.

Reference: 5050R-001 First Series

Case: The 36 x 45.3 x 11.2 mm rose gold case is in very good condition throughout. The hallmarks on the 9 o’clock side of the case as well as the backs of the lugs are intact and legible, though show signs of light past polishing. The lugs are thick, even, and well defined, and the case exhibits mild oxidation or patina throughout adding more depth and richness to the rose gold color. The reference 5050 bears key number 115 indicating production by case maker Favre-Perret.

Dial: The slivered dial is subtly vertically brushed and perfectly clean, free of any defects or wear.  The uniform dial plane and thin bezel add to the larger appearance of the 5050, while the applied roman numerals, pearled minutes track, and shapely leaf hands add refinement, dimension, and richness.  I particularly love the blued date indicator and sweep seconds hand with it’s oversized drop counter. The moon phase disc also features a higher degree of finishing than most with a raised paint or lacquer bordering the stars for added depth and finishing.

Movement: The caliber 315/136 automatic winding movement features a full gold winding rotor that is beautifully finished complete with etched Calatrava cross.  The movement is Geneva sealed and winding, setting, and functioning perfectly at approximately+7 s/d, averaged across 6 positions.

Strap: The watch is fitted on an original brown Patek signed alligator strap that is in used condition with some life remaining.  It is paired with its original signed pin buckle with very sharp hallmarks present.

Includes: An Extract from the Archives has been ordered and will accompany the sale.