I’ve long loved and longed after a “good” vintage Calatrava. And while I love the reference 96, I’ve always been drawn to the less-common central seconds variants, such as the 2457. Finding one with a full case and an attractive, clean dial with well preserved signature is an exercise in patience and perseverance that’s well rewarded by an example like this.

Case: The 30.5 x 38.5 x 10.7 (including domed acrylic crystal) rose gold case is thick and prominently showcases the Calatrava’s original proportions. It has likely seen sympathetic polishing over its estimated 70-year lifespan with deep and well-preserved hallmarks on the crown side and lug back. The inside of the case back is stamped with keymark “4”.

Dial: The subtly vertically brushed silver dial is very clean throughout with a few faint marks present. The hard enamel signature and minutes track is well preserved and intact throughout. The rose gold hands and applied indices are in very nice condition with the deep, heat-blued central seconds hand adding movement and color to the dial.

Movement: The 27SC movement prominently fills the case and is beautifully finished with swan’s neck regulator, cotes de Geneve, black polishing, polished countersinks, and anglage. Certifying the level of craftsmanship is the Genevea Seal. The Calatrava cross signed crown is likely a (common) later replacement and winds and sets slightly on the tight side though operation has been consistent, reliable, and inspected by the watchmaker with the advice to address if/when it needs service down the road as it is currently running well at approximately +4.8 s/d averaged across 6 positions.

Includes: The watch is presented on a B&R bands tan textured calf leather strap with plated gold buckle. A vintage black leather strap with integrated keeper sleeve and gold buckle is also included.