Neo-vintage Patek Philippe Calatravas are some of my favorite watches; you get the same classic styling, proportions, design, and aesthetic as the company’s most historically important watches with modern conveniences and upgrades.  The reference 5026J takes this a step further and is perhaps the best representation of modernizing a historical icon by upsizing the case slightly, while maintaining the classic proportions and characteristic wide, flat bezel, long lugs and classic dial layout, replacing a manually wound movement with a Geneva-Seal micro-rotor automatic on full display, and throwing in a little flare with the offset running seconds subdial.  More wearable by today’s size standards, perfectly classic (…I mean, applied Breguet numerals and Pomme hands…c’mon), and highly useable and versatile, the 5026 was only made for a short period between 1997 and 2002, and in limited production at that, making for a highly desirable classic of today and the future.

Case: The 33.5 x 41 x 7.6 mm yellow gold case leans more pink than yellow with a reach warmth and richness.  The case is very full, sharp, and crips with deep, crisp hallmarks intact throughout.  If the watch has seen a polish, it was certainly very sympathetic and light as the transition to the brushed mid case is sharp and crisp and the edges are all well defined.

Dial: The matte black dial provides a stark backdrop to really let the mirror polished, applied Breguet numerals and matching Pomme hands sing. The dial makes excellent use of negative space, while providing just enough distinction and character with the unusual, offset subsidiary seconds at 4 o’clock.  The dial is free from any imperfections.

Movement: Perhaps the unsung hero of the 5026 is the caliber 240 micro-rotor automatic that has served as a base in the brand’s flagship offerings. This Geneva-Seal movement is deservedly on full display through the sapphire caseback and running at approximately +1.6 s/d averaged across 6 positions, service history is unknown.

Strap: The watch is presented on a warm brown alligator Patek Philippe strap in excellent condition, showing very little, if any wear, including the matching 18K pin buckle with deep crisp hallmarks clearly visible.

Includes:  Outer box, inner leather box (interior patent leather is flaking as is typical from this era), serial matching documents envelope, leather documents folder, registration card and return envelope, magazine request card, museum booklet, manual, undated Certificate of Origin, and serial matching hang tag.